Certainly since I put this rig (this is the prototype here) in I have had some wonderful downhill slides. Cranking up to get the boat running and then just a touch on the pedals now and again to keep on course (big touches mean you normally lose speed and go out through the back of the wave). You adjust your upper body backwards and forwards to balance like a surfer, oars raised and spray whistling past your ears. More exciting than a call from the IRS.
The line with the strip of wood allows me to lower the rudder and tension the shock cord to hold it down. Landings are accomplished by flipping the knot jammed in the aluminium tab and letting the weight of the rudder do the work.
|
The purist may scoff at the idea of having a rudder with this much power on a rowing boat. Apart from the future use of the craft in a double sea kayak role the rudder has proven to be of immense benefit and made for a lot more enjoyable rowing.
1. The Footplate. The W shaped piece drops into two slots on the sides of the cockpit. There is a pin in to stop it coming out. In a kayaking configuration you pull it out turn it around and drop it into the slots in the middle or front of the cockpit. The center pillar is reinforced so it will not flex. Your feet are placed on the centreline and to turn you drop one toe slightly on a pedal. When it is rough you shift your feet to the outside edge of the plate. The pedals are on heavy duty hinges.
You will note the gun carriage setup of the lines to the rudder. This not only dampens excess rudder movement but allows you to give it a tweak to set the rudder for a long row across the breeze or tide.
I have tried a flat plate with a tiller arm but did not like this. Mind you I never have even in kayaks and this rig shown here goes in all of my kayaks. I believe in a kayak you get about 20% more power and a truckload more balance from the system.
In a setup with a sliding seat you will need to come up with some form of restraint so you can pull yourself back aft again. If I was going to do it I guess a big section of aluminium tube with lots of padding would be my choice. That would still allow me to have a choice of foot position and precise steering.
The shock cord runs through a saddle and is tensioned to keep the pedals centred which of course keeps the rudder centred so if you are going straight you can just about forget about it.
|